we were meant to wake up early but did not rise from bed until 11am. again we scurried to get our bikinis on and headed to integrale to have another amazing breakfast. this day i enjoyed half a papaya, and toast served with mango and cardamom jelly. the three of us enjoyed a tall pitcher of fresh squeeze carrot, orange, beet juice. luckily, that day the owners were in. the husband was cooking so was unable to say more than hi, nice to meet you, but his wife was more free to chat. she was incredibly beautiful. long brown and blond curly hair held back by a thick white head band. her face was tan and adorned a set of mixed asian eyes. she wore a deep purple, baggy tank top with her bikini showing from the sides, as well as her 8 month pregnant belly. next month she will be giving birth to a baby girl named joana luz (luz means light in portuguese). along with all of this she sported two complete sleeves of black lines twisting and curving on her skin. she is a tattoo artist, and designed her husband's sleeves as well as sandra's ankle tattoo of ubatuba's foliage. beautiful tattoos like these make me want to have them all over my body. but i am not prepared to make such a statement.
we were on our way north, passing all the beaches we had visited the previous day. we twisted along the road through mountain after mountain with more mountains in the distance. the weather was incredible. perfect really. beautiful clouds without the wet feeling of the day before, and so so hot. just the way i like it. i have found that most of the days are overcast here in são paulo, which makes me feel tired. i often get a headache at the peak of the day and am ready for bed at 7pm. i much more prefer these hot days of perfect sunshine.
our first stop was cachoeira da escada, waterfall of stairs. i have never really seen a waterfall before this one, and this one was incredible. we pulled off the road and parked in front of two small huts. one selling tapestries and the other food and drinks. above them through the parting trees i spotted the tall tall waterfall. it's water shooting out over the rocks and falling fearlessly below. we walked through the huts and came to a bridge constructed of bamboo. the waterfall was far more grand, having two heads. the hidden one was even bigger, crashing crashing down to the rock slides below, forming little pools that lead to the river that passed under the bridge. two other families were already enjoying this natural beauty. we took our shoes off and walked to the rocks. sandra asked if i wanted to climb the waterfall but i said that i didnt feel like getting wet. naiara was already swimming in one of the pools. with each rock i climbed and each stream i passed, more and more pieces of clothing were flung to the side. the water was huge and heavy and strong. it could kill you in a second if it wanted to. we climbed, carefully, up... trying not to slip on or between the moving rock face. i had to climb on all fours, using every part of my body as resistance to the water and moss below my feet. my heart was pounding. one wrong step and i would crash and slide to my death. i realized how small i really am. we were heading to the first head, the one seen from the car. the other, was far more dangerous and was occupied by two small boys pretending to be super heroes. i stepped and pulled and smiled until i was there. standing next to the pouring water. sandra went first, and i followed. i stood under the water as it pounded my body. i felt so nervous and calm at the same time. the water so sensual, hydrating my skin and soul, yet pushing past with no regard. we climbed back down and played in the pools. we got back to the car feeling alive and refreshed. smiling and ready for the next.
we drove a bit more, about 15-20 minutes, and ended up in rio de janeiro, at a beach called trindade. we parked the car on the side of the road as other tourists kept going. we entered a small trail hidden by the large leaves and vines. the trail was rugged, bumpy, muddy, and narrow. we walked down in single file line, stepping carefully. down, down, down, down. we walked for about 10 minutes. every so often the trail would come to a fork and we would take a right, every time. finally i could hear the ocean. i could see small flecks of light blue through the thick deep green. there it was. praia brava de trindade (mad beach of trindade). we stood on the sloped rock face looking out in front of us. there was a small and shallow fresh water stream, then a 3ft sand wall with layer upon layer of dark and light tan. next came the white sand which lead to the water. calm, light blue, clear water. we climbed the wall ran down the beach, dropping our things behind us. into the water we went. it was warm and refreshing, clear as could be, and unexpectedly very salty. we were the only people on this magnificent beach. the 3 of us turned in the water, taking in the 360* view. we stared out at the open and empty atlantic ocean, turning to the left we began to see the mountain that crept into the water. the giant rock, covered in trees of every shade of green in every kind of texture, began to grow and grow bigger and taller. the blue sky meeting the mountain, meeting the sand, meeting the water, meeting us. turning still, we ended again with the empty blue upon blue. our 3 tiny selves swam and floated and dove under waves, feeling the water grab our bodies. a family passed on the sand and headed up the trail. we left the water and walked up the hot sand to lay down beneath the trees. here we rested before entering the trail to begin our climb upward.
the first split we came to we went right, instead of the needed left to head back to the car. down, down, we went again. i began to hear crashing water, but i knew it was not the ocean. cachoeira da brava (waterfall of brava) was sandra's favorite waterfall. it was so much smaller than the first one, but just as powerful. we climbed across it's rocks and down to meet the falling water. each of us took a turn sitting beneath it. i was afraid to surrender beneath the pounding water, so sandra held my hand as i eased back and down to meet the rock. once i was there my body became like the rock. all of my muscles tightened to resist the beating upon my head and shoulders. my eyes wide and fluttering with my mouth open gasping for air like a small baby put under the shower head. another couple came and i took some pictures before giving them a turn. we climbed up and up and up and up and up. out of breath we came to the car. "valeu?" sandra asked. "was it worth it?", "ótimo" i replied.
the day continued, but that's enough for now...
WOW Tess!
ReplyDeleteYour adventures leave me in awe. I'm so happy to hear that you're doing well. I miss you!
Happy Holidays :)